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Food Finds in the Lower Hudson Valley

Adagio in Pearl River

May
1

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I’d been to Adagio in Pearl River when it opened, and frankly, I wasn’t that impressed. But a recent revisit got me thinking differently.

I went on a Friday night a couple weeks back. The crowd was just right for me: enough people that it felt lively, but not so many it felt crowded and rushed. We sat at the bar and nibbled on bread sticks and olives while we looked at the menu.

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I quite like the wine list at Adagio. It’s divided by bottle price. $25, $45 and $65.

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The first time I went, they had 25 bottles for $25, but I guess some people were asking for more expensive wine. The bar is beautiful. It’s made of walnut. My husband, who does some woodworking, was very impressed with the craftsmanship.

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Speaking of my husband, he started with a salad:

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Roasted pear, walnuts, blue cheese and mixed greens. He loved it. The walnuts were candied, but didn’t have that syrupy taste you sometimes get with sugary nuts.

I got the fried artichoke hearts. I’m a sucker for artichokes.

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The romesco sauce was just the right accompaniment. The thick — almost cloying — texture gave it enough backbone to stay on the artichoke I rose my fork to my mouth. The taste was the same: it was assertive enough to stand up to the artichoke but still played nice on the palate.

For our next course, we had the steak:

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While this tasted good, it reminded me of why I didn’t love the restaurant the first time around: the plates needed an edit. Ad you can see here, there’s a lot of sauce — and a lot of different flavors going on. The first two courses didn’t suffer from that. Next time I’ll try something different.

The pasta, shown above, was a better choice. Stick with the simple.

By the way, one of the best parts about our meal was the service. I had the same bartender — I’m spacing on her name at the moment — both visits, and she is just terrific. Friendly, accommodating and knowledgeable. And she doesn’t hover or ignore you — it’s just right.

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I haven’t eaten in the dining room yet, but it looks pleasant:

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My husband was happy for the TV in the bar. I think the Mets were playing.

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We ordered one dessert, but they surprised us with two. (I think it’s because we were asking a lot of questions and taking pictures of the food. It’s amazing how chefs respond when you’re curious about what they’re cooking.)

A semifreddo with chocolate:

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White chocolate mousse:

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Both were great, and didn’t suffer from “too much.” I give a slight edge to the semifreddo.

I’m happy I gave Adagio another chance. It’s a bright spot in the Rockland restaurant scene. What do you think?

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50 E. Central Ave., Pearl River. 845-735-3970. www.adagiorestaurant.com.

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This entry was posted on Tuesday, May 1st, 2007 at 9:25 am by Liz Johnson.
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10 Responses to “Adagio in Pearl River”

  1. Steve C.

    that steak dish was an appetizer right?

  2. Liz Johnson

    Huh?

  3. Steve C.

    “For our next course, we had the steak:”

    it looked like a very small portion. not even 5 ounces of meat. maybe it was the angle of the shot.

  4. Liz Johnson

    Oh — I see. No, it was an entree. It was a good sized portion. In fact, I’m not sure that we finished it.

  5. Steve C.

    ok. thanx

  6. daniel

    ok about the hanger steak, there only 4 things on the plate, including the steak! i think its one of the best steaks around, dont forget about the amazing mashed potatoes on the plate that need that delicious sauce!

  7. Liz Johnson

    I’m glad you like it Daniel. Maybe I’ll try it again next time I go. Because I’ll be back for sure.

  8. Robin Stewart

    This wonderful Restaurant is open for Lunch as the sign in the window said.

    I found this Restaurant to be one of the “best of the best Restaurants” of all time.The service was perfect,the food was perfect.I had wished I brought my camera along to take pictures of the food.I highly recommend this Restaurant to anyone wishing an unforgetable meal.I’d like to add the prices are very reasonable.One more note the very Lovely Woman Kate gave me cookies she had baked that very same day, they were the best cookies I have ever had.Bar none.

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Food editor Liz Johnson writes about all things culinary in the Lower Hudson Valley, including restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, farms, and anywhere else you can get a bite — small or not.
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Liz JohnsonLiz Johnson When she was young, Liz Johnson hated lima beans, onions and liver. She grew out of that, and even before she began writing about food for The Journal News in 2000, she discovered she loves fricasse, French onion soup and foie gras. READ MORE

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