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Relish in Sparkill

August
6

I had dinner at Relish in Sparkill the other night. I hadn’t been since the new chef, George DeMarsico, started. I was impressed.

Our amuse. Salmon tartare:
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The scene. They’ve added more buffers between tables since the last time I ate here. Like these reeds, for intstance. It helps to keep things a little more private along the banquette.

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We shared an order of tofu for the table. From the menu:

Crispy Organic Bean Curd
Nori-Panko Crust, Mushrooms
Micro Radish and Toasted Sesame Emulsion
$13

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The flavors were earthy and the crispness was spot on. Not oily. Very light but with a good crunch.

My friend had the salmon belly. From the menu:

House Cured Organic Salmon Belly
Local Micro Greens, Fennel Scented Potato Chips
Grain Mustard “Caviar
$15

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Very successful. Lemony. And the fennel was a nice contrast.

We also had an order of scallop. From the menu:

Ketjap Glazed Diver Sea Scallops
Pineapple and Carrot Chutney, Micro Cilantro
Cashew Powder
$15

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Ketjap is an Indonesian sauce made of soy and spices. The scallop was tasty and the greens refreshing.

And this was my dish, crab salad. From the menu:

Jumbo Lump Crab Salad
Mango, Avocado, Snow Pea Sprouts
Toasted Black Sesame, Sugar Cane-Soy Emulsion
$14

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This was the only disappointment of the evening. I wish the pea shoots weren’t all entangled in the crab. They took over the dish. Perhaps if it had been layered instead of mixed together?

More scene:

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Our wine. They were out of a couple of the beers we tried to order.

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The main courses. Spare ribs:

Glazed Berkshire Pork Ribs
Star Anise, Acacia Honey, Pickled Bok Choy
$12

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This was like an awesome version of Chinese takeout. I really liked the bok choy, too.

My shrimp.

Grilled Tunisian Gulf Shrimp
Beluga Lentils, Fennel Jam, Turmeric Crema
$29

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This was pretty pricey for what it was. Lentils? But the fennel jam? Really good. And the shrimp were cooked perfectly.

And chicken.

Roasted Breast of Organic Chicken
Jack Cheese Grits, Roasted Pattypan Squash
Applewood Bacon Jus
$20

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It was really hot when I went and this dish wasn’t very seasonal. Still, it was well prepared and tasty. I’ll get it in the fall for sure.

We skipped dessert — it was just too darn hot. But I’m happy to report that Relish is back up and running on all cylinders after losing its former chef to One in Irvington last year. What do you think? Have you been?

Relish, 4 Depot Square, Sparkill. 845-398-2747. www.relishsparkill.com

Rate This Restaurant:
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This entry was posted on Monday, August 6th, 2007 at 1:32 pm by Liz Johnson.
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One Response to “Relish in Sparkill”

  1. GES

    We enjoyed a wonderful meal at ReLish last night. The braised short ribs, tender with a tasty sauce, were delicious. They were just like mama's flanken, only a bit better! The hand rolled ricotta gnoochi with exotic mushrooms were also very good. Our meal concluded with a fabulous vanilla panna cotta with blueberries and port wine syrup. We were offered small tastings before (savory) and after (sweet) our meal. The service was professional and friendly. This is a place that understands good food and hospitality.

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Food editor Liz Johnson writes about all things culinary in the Lower Hudson Valley, including restaurants, cafes, bars, shops, farms, and anywhere else you can get a bite — small or not.
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Liz JohnsonLiz Johnson When she was young, Liz Johnson hated lima beans, onions and liver. She grew out of that, and even before she began writing about food for The Journal News in 2000, she discovered she loves fricasse, French onion soup and foie gras. READ MORE

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